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Partner Programme

16 — 22 Sept 2024

Multi-Disciplinary Design, Fashion & Textiles

ART ACADEMY LONDON

Triptych Bankside, 185 Park St,

London

SE1 9JX

#AfrosymbologyxYega

'Afro Symbology' is an exhibition, installation and workshop by British-Nigerian fashion artist Yéga. In celebration of a decade of artistry, she draws inspiration from the Yoruba illustrated textile craft of Adire Eleko and the female artisans who create these iconic cloths.

Afro Symbology is inspired by Adire, which is an 'indigo-dyed starch resist' method of textile production originating from the Yorubas in the South West of Nigeria. It is a name coined from two Yoruba words – ‘Adi’ meaning to tie and ‘re’ which means to dye. Most of the processes were traditionally carried out by women and girls and the patterned motifs of Adire Eleko were taught by mothers to daughters within dyeing families from generation to generation. This rare skill set in the art of dyeing was originally an entirely female craft thereby empowering the women economically. They expertly applied the know how acquired through shadowing and apprenticeship; creating symbols and motifs which preserved oral traditions, cultural norms and ancient proverbs. Social norms, proverbial wit and cues for communication in form of illustrated symbols were painstakingly drawn by hand using starch; forming repeat patterns in rows of 8x8 inch squares on cotton cloths. These are then dyed in the traditional indigo hue Adire is so well-known for. Yéga highlights this as one of the earliest recorded contributions to the genre of African fashion illustration which even now continues to flourish. The creation of modern scripts like the Fulani ‘Adlam' (which means "The alphabet that protects the peoples from vanishing”) and the tonally unique ’N’ko' for Manding languages; is evidence that the brilliance and value in our indigenous writings, symbols and syllabary are alive and well and continue to evolve. In the case of Adire, it has been uniquely preserved not only orally but also visually via fashion design and textile craftsmanship; with the overwhelming majority of these creators being female. It is much debated that female artistry in particular has been historically overlooked and many contributions to design by women in the Arts have not been celebrated as they deserve to be. These female ‘Aladire’ as the yoruba textile artisans are called, amplified their voices, shaped culture and had their say- using creativity and humble implements like quills, palm fronds and cassava paste applied as starch to indigo-dyed cloth. Just like the subsequent dyeing processes, their mark-making and generationally conceived co-creation combine to powerfully 'resist' any erasure of their contributions to fashion history within the continent. Various iconic textile patterns such as 'Ibadan dun' meaning Ibadan is sweet, continue to be popular in contemporary African fashion, honouring the stories of a beautiful culture. Then and even more poignantly now, the designs and the decorative elements on this cloth are a meaningful part of the wearers' day-to-day lives; proving that Adire cloth also functions as a visual language. Free to attend workshops will be hosted at Art Academy London by the artist with a compendium of symbols in print and online. Guests can choose which guided drawing exercises to follow, executing their own version of meaningful symbols. The new body of work and textile installation by Yéga will be on display within the main gallery space. This event honours the old and platforms the new, with a view to preserving African fashion culture and advancing its modern day relevance! Our clothes tell stories…and here, everyone is welcome!